Tuesday, February 13, 2007

Three times at Three Pagodas




So I know I haven't posted in some time, so I thought I'd post a few pictures I took a couple of weekends ago when Blochistan and I went to the fabled Three Pagodas Pass on the Thai-Burmese border. I've been there twice before - see April 2006 postings for more on the Three Pagodas. I didn't have time to cross into Burma, but I did get some nice pictures. Here they are!


When one comes into the Three Pagodas area, this mountain is the first view of Burma that one has.


Some of the huts on the Thai side of the border.


The Border Peace Temple, with remnants of the WWII Death Railway in the foreground.


The Three Pagodas, with Burma in the background.


Two young Children at the Three Pagodas, hamming it up for the camera.


A peaceful, hazy morning on the River Kwai in Kanchanaburi.

Monday, January 15, 2007

The Red Badge of Courage

So the New Year did not get off to a terribly auspicious start for the Dude, with break-ups, bombings, cancelled trips, and what have you. On January 3, Bee came to get all of the things for her shop from our house. She told me she would come at 4 pm, and I had everything outside and waiting for her. She said that a guy with a pickup going to her home village would come by between 4 and 5, but that he had a worse record for puncuality than even United Airlines does, which is hard to believe. We waited and waited and waited and waited. She called him, and he'd say "one more hour!" Finally, at midnight, he came. I got to spend eight quality hours with the ex. Oh boy! But in the end, we seemed to make peace, and there was a nice feeling of closure to what had been a great relationship until that point. However, she since hasn't seemed to feel that closure, but I digress.

Anyhow, the day after this fiasco, as I still had over a week of midterm break left, one of my friends and co-workers, Colin Harrington, and I decided to get out of the city, which was something I desperately needed to do. We went north, to Chiang Mai, and then checked around a little to decide what to do. We decided on Pai, a little town nestled in the mountains of Mae Hong Son province, the northwesternmost in Thailand. And a great choice it was.

Pai has experienced a tourism explosion in recent years, due to its idyllic setting and pleasant climate (although it did get into the 50's at night - pretty chilly when you're used to 90's all the time!) Lots of people are beginning to retire there, and there are several artists who base themselves there. It's really a lovely place.

The thing to do when you go to Pai is to rent a motorcycle. So, that's what Colin and I did. It's not too expensive, and there are lots of things to see around the town - waterfalls, hot springs, and scenic overlooks. This was a great idea, and was great fun, until we had about an hour left on our rentals, and were headed back into the town on the main highway, Route 1095. I was in the lead, with Colin following behind me. All of these cars, trucks, and vans were whizzing by our little 125 cc motorcycles, so I was doing my best to keep to the left (as traffic here moves on the left.) Well, the road was not in such good shape, and there was a bit of a chunk out of the side of the road that my front tire caught. I started driving on the gravel, going at about 40 - 45 kph, and I tried to get back onto the highway. Well, the gravel had other ideas, and gave way underneath me. I was thrown from the bike, with some pretty nasty scrapes on my right forearm, shoulder, back, and both hands. The motorcycle lost a bit of plastic, but was okay. Colin went and got help, I put some hand sanitizer on my wounds (man, did that hurt!), and then the people from the company we rented the cycles from came and picked me up and took me to the hospital.

At the hospital, I was shuddering in pain as they cleaned up my wounds. The doctor, who I think was younger than me (they say that you don't feel old until you have a doctor who is younger than you, so now I feel old,) perscribed me some antibiotics, gave me some ibuprofin, and sent me on my way. A week later, the wounds are starting to heal nicely. This all could have been much, much worse. I picked a relatively flat place to fall - could've been on the edge of a road with a 1000 foot drop, after all! So I'm pretty grateful, actually, for my red badge of courage.

To the pictures!


A picture showing the HM The King of Thailand (second from the right) with the King, Elvis. What a great picture! This is on display in Chiang Mai.


Colin enjoying sheesha, or Egyptian tobacco, in Pai.


A street scene from Pai town. This is a popular area to retire, and lots of artists live here, from Japan and Western Countries at well.


A lovely sunset, just out of Pai.


Another lovely sunset near Pai.


A view from a scenic overlook we motorcycled to, only twenty minutes before the big wipeout.


Funny spelling, and my shadow.


Hot springs in a national park near Pai.


A mountain stream on a hike we took one of the afternoons while we were there. The sign said that there was a waterfall. By looking at the map, we guessed it wasn't too far, and we could even ride our motorcycles there. But it turned out to be a four hour hike. It was already 3:30 by this point, and we had hiked for about one hour, and since it gets dark at about six, we decided not to go on. In addition to that, on the one day I didn't wear flipflops, we go on this hike that required us to repeatedly cross this stream. Taking the shoes off, putting them on, then taking them off again, it got pretty old. But it was a nice hike, and a nice area.


A really cool looking lizzard at a national park we rode our motorcycles to.


Here is my red badge of courage, on my right forearm, taken only minutes after the fall. I also have scrapes on my right upper arm, shoulder, back, and the heels of both hands. Other than a couple of scratches, my legs were not affected. The wound you see here was the worst of them all.


Me at the Pai hospital after having my wounds cleaned up and wrapped. Man, did that hurt! But it could have been much worse.


The bungalow where we stayed was about a fifteen minute walk from the town. This was our view on the way to the town.



On the rickety little bus from Chiang Mai to Pai


Hail progress!

Monday, January 01, 2007

Bombs over Bangkok

Times here in Bangkok have been very interesting in the past few months. Coups, that Karr guy, and now the bombings. One of the bombings happened at my favorite seafood restaurant in the city. Another bomb that did not explode was found on Khao San Road, where we had originally intended to go to see in the New Year. Another bomb that did not explode was found at one of my favorite night-life spots, Lumphini Night Bazaar. One of the bombs was near my ex-girlfriend's apartment. So this is pretty scary. Usually when you hear about bombings, it feels remote, in some place you've never been and likely never will go. Not for these ones! Oh, how real it is. I even heard the ambulances and fire trucks going to the sites of the bombings.

As for who did it, most seem to believe it's people loyal to the pre-coup government, and not the Islamist groups who have been responsible for the bombings in the far south of the country. However, no one has claimed responsibility as of yet.

For the latest, The Nation and The Bangkok Post are the two English-language newspapers here. They seem to keep pretty up-to-date information.

So that, in conjuction with the recent break up, had the makings for a pretty sad New Year's Eve, since if everything would have gone as planned, I would have been with her down in Trang on the beach celebrating, and then off to Malaysia for a few days. But I hung out with some friends at an apartment with a great view of the city. We took in the fireworks and an excellent view.

The streets are pretty quiet today, and everyone is being urged to stay in. Hopefully this does not continue, and keep too many tourists away.

Hail progress!

Sunday, December 31, 2006

The Crooked Timber of Humanity

Immanuel Kant once said, "From the crooked timber of humanity, no straight thing ever can be made." This past week, I've discovered this to be true in a very ugly way.

The New Year will be one of new beginnings for me. Miss Bee and I are finished, due to trust issues. It's been a very difficult few days for both of us, as you can imagine. I wish her well in life, and hope she finds health and happiness in the future.

I had planned on staying a third year here, but mostly for her sake. Since my main reason for staying is now out of the picture, I will be returning to the US, probably in March or May. I'll likely fly to Hong Kong for a few days, and then to San Francisco and crash on my brother's couch for a while, and possibly teach high school there.

I'm sad to be leaving, as I love it here, but this is probably for the best. If I had gone on to marry her, I would have had to pay a large dowry, and then there would have been issues with visas and the like, as well as her adjusting to life in the US. It's a sad way to end what has been a great relationship, however, and it has left me with a big empty feeling.

So, her and I will need your prayers, as this is a difficult time for both of us. But I am feeling excited about another new beginning in only six months time.

Hail progress!

Thursday, December 21, 2006

Happy Trails, Brad Radke!


One of the gutsiest baseball players in recent memory, Brad Radke, announced his retirement on Tuesday. Radke, notorious for struggling in early innings, but becoming tougher as the game went on, will be missed dearly by the Minnesota Twins and all of his fans. He was one of the few bright spots for the Twins through the lean years of the late 1990's, but I will always remember him for his true grit displayed this year. See this link for details about what this man went through for the Twins on their playoff run.

Happy Trails, #22! We already miss you.

Tuesday, November 28, 2006

A new book


One of my Grad School counterparts at Wisconsin, Mr. Matt Liesch, has recently published his first book. Check it out here. If you want to see a review of it, look at the Milwaukee Journal-Sentinal's review here. Or you can look at the publisher's website here.

Friday, October 13, 2006

6 days in Singapura


This past Tuesday evening, I returned from a 6 day trip to Singapore, which is known as "Singapura" in Malay. I don't know why the Malay name isn't used - Singapura is a cool name - it would undoubtedly place the island city-state on the tip of the Malay Peninsula on the list of the coolest place names in the world, right up there with Mombasa, Mandalay, Krakatoa, Kota Kinabalu, Katmandu, and so on. Anyhow, my job in Singapura was to think up of activities for 26 Thai High School Students from Chiang Mai to do to force them to use English in real life situations (Singapura has four official languages, and English is one of them and the one most commonly used - more on this later.) The kids were excellent, and their English level is superior to that of most of my students. However, they are Thai, and so they walk in the Thai way. For those of you not familiar with Thai walkers, most Thai people it seems, for some reason or another, walk with no awareness whatsoever of what is going on around them. It's not uncommon to be on a busy pedestrian bridge in Bangkok, and all traffic stops when some woman or man in the middle of the steps answers her or his cell phone and stops dead in her or his tracks, oblivious to the people behind her or him trying to get by. Well, anyway, they don't do this in Singapore, so it was rather embarrasing at times, such as when a student stopped in her tracks, pointed at something, and nearly smacked a passerby right in the face on Orchard road, a rather busy street.

Singapura is a much-maligned city state, notorious for its harsh laws and even harsher penalties for breaking such laws. For example, the fine for chewing gum on the subway is S$500 (or about $300 in the US.) As a result, finding gum in Singapore is perhaps as difficult as it is to find marijuana (by the way, the penalty for posession of Marijuana is hanging. Yikes! Don't go there!) The fine for littering is S$1000. As a result, it's about the cleanest little city-state you'll ever see. The laws are kind of amusing, in a way - it's like their government had all sorts of different pet peeves, and decided to crack down on them with great prejuidice. As a result, Singapura doesn't really feel like Asia, despite the obvious Asian background of its citizens. It's more like visiting a city in Canada or something, if Canada had a city in the tropics. I've been told that in Thailand, many of the Thai people call Singaporeans "bananas" - yellow on the outside, but white on the inside. Many Westerners, and even some of the people there whom I spoke with, disparage Singapore as boring, especially when compared with places like Bangkok and Hong Kong.
However, it's hard to argue that this is not one of the best-run cities in the world. In the six days I was there, I found it a nice change of pace - order and cleanliness, a break from the chaos and grime of BKK. And we were fortunate enough to have our visit correspond with three festivals within the various ethnic communities of Singapore. It was a good time, and I wouldn't mind going back or even living there someday (even though I'd have to cross to Malaysia from time to time and smuggle in some gum!)
To the pictures!The street where we stayed...

...and this is why the street has such a name. The Lutheran Church of Our Redeemer, which gives services in both English and Mandarin.


High rise apartment buildings. Such buildings seem to cover 70-80 percent of Singapore's built environment. If you look carefully, you can see numbers on the sides of these buildings - otherwise people wouldn't be able to tell them apart. 86% of the population lives in buildings like this. This may seem depressing to some, but Singapore is physically the same size as Madison, Wisconsin, but with 4 million souls crowded into it (Madison has about a quarter million.) It is far more sustainable than the silly urban-spawlopolis model favored in the US. There is lots of greenspace on the island, making it even more of a pleasant place. In fact, there is still some primary-growth rainforest in spots, I've been told.

Signs, signs, everywhere signs. Singpore has more public service announcement signs than any place I've seen. It also is the only country in the world with a national dating service, aimed at boosting the population of the country's post-industrial society with extremely low birth rates.


This sign shows the four languages of Singapore: English, Mandarin (Chinese,) Tamil (a language of Southern India, where most Indian-Singaporeans come from,) and Malay.


Orchard Road in Singapore. This is the major commercial area of the city-state. It kind of reminded me of Harajuku in Tokyo.


Old-school departures sign at Singapore's Changi Airport


The grand old Raffles Hotel, the place where the Singapore Sling was invented. Sadly, it costs S$16 (US $10 or so) to get one here. Needless to say, I stuck to Tiger Beer.

Okay, if you insist! Just don't cane me...

A polar bear in Singapore's Zoo. What the hell is a polar bear doing at 1 degree north lattitude? I really don't understand this - it seems cruel, but they do have an air-conditioned den and cooled water to swim in. That would be like having orangutans outside at the Antarctica Zoo, if there were such a thing. Yes, he does look miserable, doesn't he? Anyway, some of my students told me I look like a polar bear. I have always liked polar bears, so I've latched on to this thing. Singapore's Zoo, by the way, may be the best I've seen.

A mosque in the Malay section of the city. 7 or 8 percent of the population is Malay.

The skyline of Singapore, with the Merlion, Singapore's symbol, spitting water in the foreground. Singapura means "Lion City," and with it's proximity to the sea, they decided to put a fish's tail on the lion's head. The haze is from slash-and-burn farmers in Sumatra, across the straits of Malacca, and wildfires, as it is dry season in Indonesia.

A less-blurry Dipawalli picture.


A blurry picture of a street in Little India. It is decorated for Dipawalli, the Hindu festival of light. Something like 11 or 12 percent of Singapore's populace is Indian.


Hindu Temple in Little India. If we had been able to stay here until 1 am, we could have seen people walking over broken glass and hot coals to test their purity. Bummer.

Taken from exactly the same spot as the picture below, only looking to the right instead of straight ahead. I really like this picture.

On the street in the colonial district of Singapore. Singapore was a British colony until Malaysia gained independence in 1960, and then five years later, it gained independence from Malaysia.


A dragon in the Mid-Autumn Festival Parade

a drum in the Mid-Autumn Festival parade, one of the three festivals I mentioned earlier.


Red Chinese Lanterns in Chinatown. 77% of Singapore's population is Chinese.

Some of the cool Chinese lanterns on display in Chinatown for the Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival


Some guy's foot


Suvarnabumi (pronounced "suu-WAAN-a-poom) Airport, Bangkok's brand-spankin' new (it opened Sept. 28) International Airport that just opened last week. Despite some seemingly needlessly long hallways, it is actually a pretty nice facility.

Saturday, September 23, 2006

Images from the coup in Thailand, courtesy of 2bangkok.com




These pics, taken from the 2bangkok.com, should give you an idea of just how "dangerous" life in Bangkok is right now with all of the political intrigue going on. Let's hope it stays this way, and nothing ugly happens, and that democratic rule is restored post-haste!

Tuesday, September 19, 2006

Coup d'etat

Just to let everyone know, everything is okay here, at least for now. The TV is off, Tanks are surrounding the government buildings, and there will probably be a curfew in place for the next week or so. But other than that, shouldn't interrupt things out here in Eastern Bangkok too much.

Hail Progress!

Monday, September 04, 2006

Tuesday, August 15, 2006

Sunday, July 23, 2006

A sign not to be missed!


No caption needed. A special thanks to the guy on the Lonely Planet Thorn Tree Bulletin Board named Curt, or "Stupid American," for posting this - I've been meaning to take a picture of this sign for over a year, but keep forgetting my camera. I have heard that the massages here are so relaxing that you'll feel nauseated!